Silk Painting Studio Renovation Part 2: Furnishings, Storage and Lighting

img_4070 New studio view 1













Ironing table













The larger ceiling lights we used were recessed LED, color temperature 2700 Kelvin which is on the warm end of the spectrum.  I found the “daylight” option to be too harsh and blue, but it’s a personal preference.  Each light is 700 lumens and is dimmable (not all LED lights can be dimmed, so be sure to check the box).  I prefer dimmable lights because I don’t always want harsh, bright lighting.  I got mine from Lowe’s and the number is LB012CM-160C.  Four of these over the main work table area, plus two more smaller versions on either side of these that are directed onto the walls, give sufficient lighting for me to paint.

The tabletops are about 48 x 48 inches and stand at 34.5 inches high.  We used white formica for the laminate.  I have not had problems with it staining from dyes or gutta resists.

The ironing table has storage beneath.  The wooden top has been covered with cotton batting and ironing board cloth.  The iron sits above it on a shelf that has a hole drilled into it for the cord.  This keeps the cord out of the way while ironing.  There’s also under-cabinet lighting installed under the shelf to illuminate the ironing board.  The table measures 48 inches wide x 19 deep x 34 high.

Other storage consists of ready-made cabinetry and drawer units, and a renovated, enlarged walk-through closet.  A 71-inch long x 24 deep x 20 tall custom made bench with hinged lid holds long items like bolts of silk, stretcher bars, and rolls of steamer paper.





Silk Painting Studio Renovation, Part 1: Turning Two Small Rooms into One Big Space

Hooray, it’s finally happened!  I now have a much larger silk painting studio, thanks to my amazing husband Gerry!  This has been a dream for a very long time, fueled more recently by the need to accommodate more students and more fun projects.  This year I visited my silk painting buddies in Washington and Canada, Karen Sistek and Moe Reilly, and their huge, gorgeous studios gave me renewed resolve for one of my own (although it still does not rival theirs in size, it’s perfect for me!).  Since this has been such an all-consuming project this year, I thought I’d share the condensed version of all the action with you.  Thanks for sharing in the joy.


How to Make a Wood Frame with Acrylic Glazing, Part 1: The Frame

The power tools we’ll be using to make the frame are:

table saw
miter saw
nail gun with compressor and 18-gauge finish nails
palm sander

Framing materials are:

2 x 2 clear pine boards (no knots). Keep in mind that the actual measurements will be more like 1 1/2 x 1 1/2.
1/16 inch clear acrylic (we’re using non-glare)
3/16 inch plywood (optional)

When calculating the measurements for your frame, You’ll have to figure out how many feet of 2 x 2″ pine board you’ll need to accommodate your art. Continue reading

How to Stretch Silk for Painting Using Hariki and Shinshi

Links mentioned in video:

John Marshall’s website:

How to Remove Mineral Deposits from Your Silk Steamer

Here are the links mentioned in the video:

Using a Vertical Electric Steamer Part 1:  The Steamer Parts and How to Prep the Core

Using a Vertical Electric Steamer Part 2:  Wrapping Your Silk Paintings Onto a Core for Steaming

Using a Vertical Electric Steamer Part 3:  Steaming Your Silk Paintings

Gutta Resist vs. Water-based Resist: A Few Opinions and Experiences Shared

Over the years, I’ve spent a lot of time and money on silk painting resists.  In this video blog, I share a few things I’ve learned in hopes of making a more efficient and pleasurable silk painting experience for you.  You’re welcome, Darlings…  enjoy!

(see links mentioned in video below.)

Continue reading